The season has started and it is in full swing. Thousands of gringos (non-brazilians in Brazil) from the world over descend upon the cities of Recife, Salvador and especially Rio de Janeiro to play or dance or simply galavant around in carnival. In cities all around the world, from New York to Amsterdam to Tokyo you have the Samba heads, wether dancers or musicians getting ready to play in carnival.

American samba heads from San Diego

In these Samba groups all over the planet there is drumming, dancing and everything in between. Revelry is key and really the most important aspects of samba are maintained all over the world. The pursuit of rhythm, dance and a good time! One particularly organized school is the London School of Samba.

Hot gringas from the London School of Samba

There are two types of gringo adventurers who play in carnival: 1. the ones who come with some sort of indication, like a teacher from a certain samba school or what not, and 2. the trailblazers, the ones who just go for it and show up somewhere (traditionally this has usually been the domain of poorly bathed Frenchmen). Then there are those types that are kinda in between, those who have some samba, maracatu or capoeira experience in their native country, but still make the “on the ground” Brazil contacts themselves using their beginner’s portuguese and a lot of courage.

A young Canadian practicing samba caixa (snare) up high, using a practice pad and a pandeiro in its case. Notice the Rocinha (escola de samba)shirt.

In the modern world of intense net access many of these “Brasilphiles,” as they are known in the politically correct world, document their adventures, perspectives, and learning process in blogs. One clever and insightful blog about the whole process of playing in a samba school is by a girl in Montreal, Canada, named Vanessa. Her blog BatidaBadaBoom is lots of fun as she writes about learning the tamborin instrument in the Samba School at Rocinha. There are a number out there, a quick search will reveal hundreds.

For those brave ones who attempt to parade and play with the big Samba Schools, there is always the risk that they will turn to you and say: “Sorry you don’t make the cut.” In recent years many schools have been rejecting the samba tourists who haven’t put in the right amount of time. Some complain that the foreigners take pictures during the parade, slow it down, look ugly (joke!) etc etc… Really, one only knows on the last day if you will get the costume to parade in the Sambodromo (the samba school stadium).

For the people who just want a more relaxing atmosphere and opportunity to play in carnival, there are hundreds of blocos all over the country, especially in Olinda/Recife, Salvador da Bahia and in Rio de Janeiro. Blocos are just street groups that make music and have no official designation in the Carnival competition (yes carnival is a fierce competition for the best and most beautiful samba group). In Recife they could play either frevo music (horns and drums) or maracatu. In Salvador they play either samba-reggae or samba or some fusion. In Rio they play either marchinhas (old marching songs), or samba, or maracatu! To be part of a bloco, you just have to get involved early enough, meet the right people, and throw yourself into it. There is no shame in the game, just inquire at the hostels, check the guide book, or your Rio tourist office.

The Gringo bloco in Lapa

Of course there are many people who come to dance in Rio, not just play drums. The colourful costumes, the unique swing of samba are an attraction that many women find undeniable and participate in the Brazilian Carnival pilgrimage. Last year I brought you news of sambista Jessica Semedo tearing it up as a dancer in several samba schools.

NEW UPDATE!

I have had some people on Facebook complaining that I didn’t disclose my gringo background. Some readers felt offended by my description of the throngs of foreigners in Brazil learning the arts.

OK full disclosure… I myself am a gringo! There I said it. I first came to Brazil 10 years ago, since then I’ve been termed a Brazilphile, a gringo brasileiro, etc etc. Often when people are being nice they will say “Voce parece brasileiro” or “you look Brazilian.” I do speak Portuguese pretty well, some may say fluent, thanks  to 3 years living in Brazil and 8 years of yearly travel to this great land. Like all good and hip gringoes I am passionate about music and the arts in this country. I’ve played percussion in Maracatu Estrela Brilhante do Recife since 2002, parading in Carnival of Recife many times, and I also play capoeira angola. Because of my background in anthropology I take a keen interest in the geopolitical history of the country and I can hold a conversation with laymen, businessmen or university professors. Let me see… what other gringo things have I done… oh yes, I married a pretty Brazilian woman at one point (we all make mistakes lol) and… I have taught English as a second language to earn money  (where I met the university professors).

Some not typically gringo things I have done: worked as a waiter for a upper class catering service in Belo Horizonte, produced a few parties in Bahia and Belo Horizonte (one was a reggae jam), driven a Ford Celta across sanddunes in Ceara in North East Brazil, and then 2800 km to São Luis and back through the hot interior, and worked for a local NGO on contract to UNHABITAT to produce a show at the Circo Voador.

Now when the newbie gringo gets to Brasil, they often feel a certain jealousy towards people who have acclimatized. My advice: don’t be ashamed of who you are,  get over it and have fun. No one is closing any doors! Enjoy your time in Brazil, don’t get cocky, enjoy and drink that mate on the beach!! It’s great stuff!

Let me also end by saying, there is a long tradition of gringos in Brazil. They are as integral to the countries make up and identity as coffee, sugar, and futebol (soccer). Most immigrants to Brazil (Portuguese, Spanish, Arab, Italian, Greek, Japanese and what not) have been labelled gringos. The term is used in the literature since the late 1800s. So relax and enjoy the gringo life.

Alex Bordokas